RELAXING IN THE LAP OF JAPANESE LUXURY
The Izu Peninsula is at first glance an unpromising patch of ground. A jumble of low but steep volcanic mountains dribbling south from Mount Fuji along a geologic fault line, it has plenty of earth-quakes and scenery, but not much land flat enough for farming. Thanks to those volcanoes,though, one can scarcely poke a stick in the ground anywhere on the Izu Peninsula without hot water bubbling out, and this,together with its convenience to the major land and sea routes from Kansai to Kanto, has resulted in more onsen hot-spring resorts per square centimeter than any place else in the country. The true Japanese-style onsen ryokan carries the Japanese sense of luxury to its highest pitch. From a steaming outdoor pool in a landscaped garden, one walks through polished wooden corridors to a spacious, fragrant tatami room where, sipping rare local sake, one partakes of course after course of elegant kaiseki delicacies. For a high but (for a few days) (OK, one night) manageable price, even a foreigner can enjoy luxuries fit for a Hideyoshi. Have you really been in Japan if you haven't done this? Shuzenji, in the heart of the Izu Peninsula, has been a resort since Heian times. Tucked back in the upper valley of the only substantial river to drain out of the peninsula, the temple of Shuzenji was founded by Kukai in the 9th century and became an economic and administrative center. The area has close associations with the Hojo and Minamoto samurai families, and over the centuries leading lights of the artistic and literary world as well as prelates and statesmen have resided or resorted there. Today Shuzenji offers some of the most luxurious onsen ryokan in the country (along with many humble, inexpensive family-operated inns). It is also a center for the burgeoning movement of Izu potters and other folk craft artists, and has a number of significant historic sites, so a weekend or a week spent there need not be devoted entirely to parboiling oneself, pleasant though that may be. |
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The Arai Ryokan is one of Shuzenji's most distinguished inns, founded in 1872. It is located a short distance from Shuzenji temple, on the banks of the Katsura River, where, directly in front of the inn, a hot spring wells up to be captured in the Tokko no Yu, an open-air bath available free to the general public. The Arai's large, Japanese-style wooden buildings are scattered in a garden, connected by roofed wooden passageways; a stream wanders among them, connecting ponds of various sizes where huge, colorful carp gather quickly whenever a human shadow falls across the water.Guests coming from the various baths linger on the spacious verandas for a chilled yu-agari beer and feed carp biscuits to the eager fish (100yen a sack). The third-generation master of the Arai, kantaro Aihara, studied Japanese-style painting (nihonga) at the Ueno Art School (now Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music) before returning to Shuzenji to take over the inn in 1906. Unable to continue in the arts himself, he made all his artist friends welcome at the inn, which quickly became a hotbed of nihonga activity. Such nihonga luminaries as Seison Maeda, Shunso Hishida and Shiko Imamura were to be found soaking in Arai's healing waters. The great Taikan Yokoyama stayed here frequently throughout his long life. Not surprisingly, has an excellent art collection, various treasures from which are on display. |
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The main attraction, of course, is the baths, led by the Tenpyo Dai Yokudo, which was designed by nihonga artist Yukihiko Yasuda, a special friend of Kantaro's. Considered a masterpiece of classic Japanese design, the Tenpyo Dai Yokudo was intended to express the aesthetic spirit of the Tenpyo Era (729-765).
Next is the outdoor Komorebi no Yu (Dappled Sunlight Bath) , which combines the arts of bathing and garden appreciation in a kind of acme of luxury. Both sexes get to enjoy both baths, with the tenpyo open to men in the evening and women in the morning, and the Komorebi the reverse. The Ayame bath (women evenings, men mornings) has a sauna, while the Biwako and the two Kazoku (Family) baths can be closed for mixed groups. Many of the rooms have their own private baths. The Tempyo Hot Spring Facility "Japanese architecture for the Japanese bath"was the belief of the artist Yasuda Yukihiko(1884-1978), a frequent patron of this inn. His investigations into eighth century Tempyo-period structural design inspired his conception for hot spring facility. It was completed in 1934 after three years of constant labor. It is in its original state minus any alterations. This is a natural source hot spring bath, and guests should adjust the temperature to their liking by adjusting the flow of hot and cold water through the taps. Please be aware that the hot spring water has a very high temperature and exercise appropriate caution. Shower facilities are in the Lake Biwa bath area. It is our hope that guests can appreciate the cultural and historical experience of the bath and surrounding structures with all the senses, not only through sight but through sound touch as well. |
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